Driving on top of the world

“Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me, as is ever so on the road”
― Jack Kerouac, On the Road

We are on the road. We’ve hired a car and have a map and a plan. There is a sense of freedom in discovering Madeira at our own pace; driving across valleys and basins and hills and mountains. Our day trip is a circular route exploring the northwest of the island, starting from Funchal and heading to Sao Vincente, Porto Moniz, down to Rabacal and back to the hotel before night falls.

Getting out of the city is the hard part, but once we are on the highway our journey begins. Madeira is like no other island I’ve seen. Its volcanic origins means that it’s shaped like an iceberg as one book described it. And it is true. Nothing is flat. We drive up the steep curving hills, and again snake down winding slopes, cut across bridges that connect the hills and through tunnels that delve deep through the mountains. The scenery is stunning. The deep green and lush mountains appear one after the other.

We arrive at Sao Vincente in time for a guided tour of the caves that are 890,000 years old and made from a now extinct volcano which erupted. As we enter the damp and dark lava canal tubes, I imagine being Bilbo Baggins as he explores this labyrinth maze. The main tunnel is 1km long. I don’t want to get lost inside this mountain. Our guide informs us that the tunnels are formed from the lava forming a hard crust, the hot lava flowed underneath this crust. Then when the volcano stopped erupting, the hard crust was left and the tunnels were created.

The tour continues and we are taken to an interesting museum that is about the beginning of the world and the creation of Madeira. We then take a lift down to the centre of the earth and watch an equally dramatic 3D film which exclaims, ‘creation is a beginning without an end’.

Back to the car, we continue on to Porto Moniz for a spot of lunch. I have four large grilled sardines with rice and salad. It is delicious. We then walk down to the lava pools which are beautifully clear and have lots of fish.

Our journey continues to Paul da Serra, we continue up the hill side and turn the corner to see the stunning view of the valleys and mountains. Peaks of the hills are in the clouds. We get out and take photos. It reminds us of the rolling hills of Scotland, they are thick with a blanket of thistle, heather and bracken.

At the top of the hill we drive through the clouds. We are now on top of the island with beautiful panoramic views of the sea. We have left the warm tropics below and are riding on the craggy mountain tops where an eagle soars and dives and we see a herd of cattle standing by the roadside.

We feel as if we are on top of the world. There is fog and dramatic plunging heights.

We turn the corner and are above the clouds and are surrounded by enormous wind turbines that look futuristic.

The view is astonishing. It feels like we are in aeroplane seeing the world in all its awesome dramatic scenery.

My son has spent the whole afternoon asleep in the back of the car, missing the views completely.

Our trip to this island has been more than we had hoped for. This 'floating garden in the Atlantic' has captured our hearts.

Levada Walks

Madeira is famous for its levada walks and we are looking forward to our trek across the Serra D’Agua Valley.

The levadas are a network of (mini) canals that spread 2100km across the island. They are an irrigation system that distributes water across the island, mainly from the north, where most of the rain falls, to the south where the majority of the people live. They are also great for hikers to follow and explore the island.

We begin our tour and the group is introduced. There are people from Germany, Sweden, Finland, Scotland and England.

The morning is cool and fresh and we can hear cockerels and dogs barking in the valley. There is local music playing from a van where a man sells his fresh fish. It is very peaceful walking along the canal in the bright morning sun.

Our guide points out the variety of plants and flowers along the way. There are poisonous Belladonna Lilys and Angel Traps. Fennel grows freely and can be used for iced tea, sweets and liqueur. There are lemon trees, avocado plants, laurel bay leaves for cooking and banana trees in abundance.

 

My favourite is the flower that represents Madeira for me, the Bird of Paradise;

As Madeira is an island, the oceanic climate makes it lush and tropical. It’s volcanic past means the soil is rich with potassium, calcium and phosphorous providing a perfect mineral content for the development of vegetation. The variety of terrains and plants is astonishing. We turn the corner to walk through woods of pine trees, their cones as large as your hand. Then there are 80 year old chestnut trees.

Turn another corner and we pass through fragrant eucalyptus woods. The seeds offer a pungent smell that can be used in people’s homes or as an insect repellent. There are signs of a fire and the blackened trunks dot the landscape. The eucalyptus leaves are full of oil so can help fuel the flames of a summer fire making it quite dangerous.

 

As we follow the Levada trail, we peer through the trees and see the valley covered in gentle irrigation steps that help slow the rain water as it falls down the hill. It reminds my husband of his trek in the rice hills of Nepal.

 We stop to try some tomato passion fruit, sucking on the juices and pips.

Finally, it is the end of the trip, and our bus is waiting. But we have one more stop at a local cafe where we scoff some Madeira cake and tea and talk to a couple from Inverness in Scotland who return to the island again and again.

In the evening we head to Funchal's city centre which is in full swing of the Christmas festivities. The streets are lined with trees lit up with hundreds of lights. We jump off the night bus at the cathedral and spot two enormous sparkling angels.

The city seems magical and alive. Everywhere there are outdoor cafes spilling out on to the pavements, people drinking coffee and telling stories. There is music, dancing and singing everywhere, with procession bands straight out of The Godfather and people in traditional clothes walking in a long lines clapping to the music.

 

A choir of young girls sing Christmas carols. Music seems very much part of life in the city.

 

We head to the central tropical park where there is a huge Santa Claus. People queue to sit on his knee and have their photo taken. A red train covered in fairy lights is perfect for young children to enjoy playing. The tropical foliage almost reminds me of Cochabamba in Brazil. We head home tired but happy, having enjoyed another day in Madeira.

 

 

Our levada walk was through Madeira Explorers.

Sea sickness & shivers in my search for dolphins

My boat trip to find dolphins is a test of endurance and a journey of braving the elements.

It begins innocently enough in the Marina Shopping Centre near the harbour of Funchal, Madeira. We are given no warning of what is in store as our chirpy marine biologist gives her short introduction into the marine wonders of the waters of Madeira.

This archipelago volcanic island is abundant with fish so is like a restaurant-stop for dolphins and whales in the vast Atlantic Ocean. There are Sperm Whales, Pilot Whales, Fin Whales, Bottlenose Dolphins, Common Dolphins, Atlantic Spotted Dolphins...making the waters rich in marine life.

Filled with anticipation our small group walk to the inflatable boat and we put on our life jackets, whilst taking our seats. Our adventure is about to begin. As we speed from the island we can see the volcanic cliffs. The coast of the island has sheer deep drops underwater, so the dolphins and whales can swim very close.

Our boat departs and we are off, everyone scanning the water, trying desperately to see a whale blow or a fin. Apparently a whale blow is visible from seven miles away. Our eyes play tricks as we constantly catch ourselves imagining we see a sliver of a silver body in the waves, but there is only endless sea. The sun sparkles on the water and we continue.

I realise quickly that I am completely inappropriately dressed, as I'm wearing a skimpy cotton dress; I am soon cold with the wind.

There are two look-out men at either end of the island using binoculars to scan the sea for activity. Their job is to alert the boats of any action.

We skim around the island and see nothing but endless open water. After a while our hopes diminish.

I have the patience of a child waiting for Christmas. All I see is sea. Half an hour, then one hour, then two hours has slipped by, time starts to oppress like its eternity.

I start to dream of shopping for a nice top in New Look, or going for dinner, or watching TV in the comfort of my warm hotel. I start to feel that I don't want to be on this bloody boat on this stupid sea. I am Ellen MacArthur and have experienced my tipping point as 2 hours 15 and I can't cope anymore...

I'm cold, my chin is trembling and I have goose bumps all over my legs. My M&S cardigan will not protect me and I'm not enjoying staring at water anymore.

I am all sea sickness and shivers and have developed irritating loud hiccups, which I do not attempt to hide, as we bounce over each wave.

For some reason we start to drive at breakneck speed across the water in now the opposite direction. Our young sailor with his handsome looks, shoulder length hair and Top Gun shades thinks he is in an episode of Baywatch, as I hold on to the boat with all seriousness and determination, willing us to slow down. My older Belgium companion and the young girl behind me start to laugh with delight. When will this end?

The Marina Port is in view and we are unbelievably passing it, with no sign of turning or slowing. All hope is lost.

The Marine Biologist has come over and shouts 'there are dolphins, but very far away. We will be late returning. Is that okay?' 'Yes, but won't they have swam away by the time we get there?' I ask with great curiosity, enthusiasm and hiccups. I can't hear her reply and she is returning to her seat at the back of the boat.

My mind swims with conspiracy theories. There are no dolphins in this sea, it is just a scam to get tourists to part with their money and then drive them about before we are returned to shore with empty pockets. I turn to look at the biologist and sailor and neither is even looking at the water, like they should be. They have given up too.

As the sun lowers in the sky, the water has become silky smooth and still, we glide over the water going up and down as the waves carry us and we continue and continue and continue further out to sea with no end in sight. More water, more water, more water, more water....water forever. We are following the path of the sun to the end of the earth.

Eventually we are slowing and come to a stop. We all sit up and look around until I hear excited talk of dolphins. I scan the sea and see two, three, four... dolphins their fins above water, then jumping in the waves.

Oh hooray! We can see them. Oh thank you marine biologist, oh thank you sea. What a wondrous sight. A pod of dolphins swimming about twenty meters away from us. Gliding through the water and now jumping through the waves. They get closer and some swim by us and are now under the boat.

The silky water is so clear and calm we can see the dolphins clearly. They are extraordinary. The sun is twinkling on the water and it so peaceful, we can only hear the gentle lapping of the water as the dolphins swim and chase fish.

It has been worth the wait and my heart is gladdened. I'm happy again and enjoy this moment of excitement and thrill.

I've captured a small piece of paradise in my memory and on my camera. These perfect creatures living their own secret lives in the vast, vast ocean.

What a delight to behold. I will treasure this moment forever.

This wonderful experience was made possible by rota dos cetaceos in Funchal, Madeira.

Madeira, Madeira!

We escaped the winter weather in London and fled to the sunny shores of Madeira, a small idyllic island near the coast of North Africa. December was the perfect month to go and within four and a half hours on the plane we arrived at our destination feeling a million miles from home. The tranquil warmth of the island was in complete contrast to our memories that Christmas was nearly upon us.

After a swift taxi drive through the winding roads and rock tunnels from Funchal airport, we arrived at our hotel, Porto Mare, and quickly stretched our legs in the beautiful gardens. The array of tropical plants was stunning. There were banana trees and orchids of all colours, and brightly coloured exotic birds of paradise flowers. It was a perfect place for my son to explore and find secret gardens where he could hide amongst the bamboo.

We set off to find a place for dinner and meandered down to the sea where we took in the pink pastel sky and crescent moon. We could smell the sea breeze in the air. It hadn't taken us long to shake off London and feel completely relaxed, dining al fresco in the evening.

In the morning we set off to explore the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens on the hill above the capital, Funchal.  It was an oasis of calm and tranquillity, which brought you close to nature's glorious array of fauna and ferns. Plants and trees from across the world grew in all their splendour.

The fresh green tropical plants made you imagine what the world may have looked liked during the Jurassic period. There were Australian Tree Ferns, Californian Redwoods, Pygmy Date Palms, Jelly Palms from Brazil, cut-leaf Philodendron Curly Palms, Elegant Palms from Australia, Windmill Palms from China, Cy cads from Africa and Carvalho Oaks from Europe.

Some plants even had intriguing names such as Dragon's Beard from Japan or Spanish Dagger from America.

It was an immensely relaxing and tranquil place. The tall trees spread their huge fern leaves creating a cooling shade. Breathing in the cool, damp and fresh air immediately calmed you.

An oriental theme was very much part of gardens with laughing Buddha's, roaring tigers and fierce dragon statues placed amongst the trees.

Having the gardens on the hillside, accentuated the picturesque and beauty of the garden. Waterfalls and streams ran by the small winding paths down the hill. The stone steps were smooth and rounded and covered in moss so as to become part of the natural setting. Every where you looked there were little bridges, paths, or stepping stones to jump across the water, a delight for parents and children alike.

All you could hear was the sound of running water, birds in the trees and the chiming of the Buddhist bells.

At the centre of the garden was a lake with two waterfalls cascading down the hill and fountains spraying water. There were ducks, swans and a group of carp fish hiding under a bridge. We walked up to the cafe to drink some tea on the terrace and enjoyed the view of the blue sea and sky. There was a pretty Mediterranean style villa with huge potted plants surrounding the house and trees heavy with oranges and lemons which made for a very picturesque view.

A robin and a few chaffinches came to join us in search of some croissant crumbs. We eventually left to take a cable car back down the hill and watched the panoramic view of the city and sea, shimmering and sparkling in the warm sun.

We had only just begun our holiday but already felt so relaxed and contented being so close to nature in this emerald forest with so many delights to behold. We wondered what the next day would bring.