Levada Walks

Madeira is famous for its levada walks and we are looking forward to our trek across the Serra D’Agua Valley.

The levadas are a network of (mini) canals that spread 2100km across the island. They are an irrigation system that distributes water across the island, mainly from the north, where most of the rain falls, to the south where the majority of the people live. They are also great for hikers to follow and explore the island.

We begin our tour and the group is introduced. There are people from Germany, Sweden, Finland, Scotland and England.

The morning is cool and fresh and we can hear cockerels and dogs barking in the valley. There is local music playing from a van where a man sells his fresh fish. It is very peaceful walking along the canal in the bright morning sun.

Our guide points out the variety of plants and flowers along the way. There are poisonous Belladonna Lilys and Angel Traps. Fennel grows freely and can be used for iced tea, sweets and liqueur. There are lemon trees, avocado plants, laurel bay leaves for cooking and banana trees in abundance.

 

My favourite is the flower that represents Madeira for me, the Bird of Paradise;

As Madeira is an island, the oceanic climate makes it lush and tropical. It’s volcanic past means the soil is rich with potassium, calcium and phosphorous providing a perfect mineral content for the development of vegetation. The variety of terrains and plants is astonishing. We turn the corner to walk through woods of pine trees, their cones as large as your hand. Then there are 80 year old chestnut trees.

Turn another corner and we pass through fragrant eucalyptus woods. The seeds offer a pungent smell that can be used in people’s homes or as an insect repellent. There are signs of a fire and the blackened trunks dot the landscape. The eucalyptus leaves are full of oil so can help fuel the flames of a summer fire making it quite dangerous.

 

As we follow the Levada trail, we peer through the trees and see the valley covered in gentle irrigation steps that help slow the rain water as it falls down the hill. It reminds my husband of his trek in the rice hills of Nepal.

 We stop to try some tomato passion fruit, sucking on the juices and pips.

Finally, it is the end of the trip, and our bus is waiting. But we have one more stop at a local cafe where we scoff some Madeira cake and tea and talk to a couple from Inverness in Scotland who return to the island again and again.

In the evening we head to Funchal's city centre which is in full swing of the Christmas festivities. The streets are lined with trees lit up with hundreds of lights. We jump off the night bus at the cathedral and spot two enormous sparkling angels.

The city seems magical and alive. Everywhere there are outdoor cafes spilling out on to the pavements, people drinking coffee and telling stories. There is music, dancing and singing everywhere, with procession bands straight out of The Godfather and people in traditional clothes walking in a long lines clapping to the music.

 

A choir of young girls sing Christmas carols. Music seems very much part of life in the city.

 

We head to the central tropical park where there is a huge Santa Claus. People queue to sit on his knee and have their photo taken. A red train covered in fairy lights is perfect for young children to enjoy playing. The tropical foliage almost reminds me of Cochabamba in Brazil. We head home tired but happy, having enjoyed another day in Madeira.

 

 

Our levada walk was through Madeira Explorers.