It begins innocently enough in the Marina Shopping Centre near the harbour of Funchal, Madeira. We are given no warning of what is in store as our chirpy marine biologist gives her short introduction into the marine wonders of the waters of Madeira.
This archipelago volcanic island is abundant with fish so is like a restaurant-stop for dolphins and whales in the vast Atlantic Ocean. There are Sperm Whales, Pilot Whales, Fin Whales, Bottlenose Dolphins, Common Dolphins, Atlantic Spotted Dolphins...making the waters rich in marine life.
Filled with anticipation our small group walk to the inflatable boat and we put on our life jackets, whilst taking our seats. Our adventure is about to begin. As we speed from the island we can see the volcanic cliffs. The coast of the island has sheer deep drops underwater, so the dolphins and whales can swim very close.
Our boat departs and we are off, everyone scanning the water, trying desperately to see a whale blow or a fin. Apparently a whale blow is visible from seven miles away. Our eyes play tricks as we constantly catch ourselves imagining we see a sliver of a silver body in the waves, but there is only endless sea. The sun sparkles on the water and we continue.
I realise quickly that I am completely inappropriately dressed, as I'm wearing a skimpy cotton dress; I am soon cold with the wind.
There are two look-out men at either end of the island using binoculars to scan the sea for activity. Their job is to alert the boats of any action.
We skim around the island and see nothing but endless open water. After a while our hopes diminish.
I have the patience of a child waiting for Christmas. All I see is sea. Half an hour, then one hour, then two hours has slipped by, time starts to oppress like its eternity.
I start to dream of shopping for a nice top in New Look, or going for dinner, or watching TV in the comfort of my warm hotel. I start to feel that I don't want to be on this bloody boat on this stupid sea. I am Ellen MacArthur and have experienced my tipping point as 2 hours 15 and I can't cope anymore...
I'm cold, my chin is trembling and I have goose bumps all over my legs. My M&S cardigan will not protect me and I'm not enjoying staring at water anymore.
I am all sea sickness and shivers and have developed irritating loud hiccups, which I do not attempt to hide, as we bounce over each wave.
For some reason we start to drive at breakneck speed across the water in now the opposite direction. Our young sailor with his handsome looks, shoulder length hair and Top Gun shades thinks he is in an episode of Baywatch, as I hold on to the boat with all seriousness and determination, willing us to slow down. My older Belgium companion and the young girl behind me start to laugh with delight. When will this end?
The Marina Port is in view and we are unbelievably passing it, with no sign of turning or slowing. All hope is lost.
The Marine Biologist has come over and shouts 'there are dolphins, but very far away. We will be late returning. Is that okay?' 'Yes, but won't they have swam away by the time we get there?' I ask with great curiosity, enthusiasm and hiccups. I can't hear her reply and she is returning to her seat at the back of the boat.
My mind swims with conspiracy theories. There are no dolphins in this sea, it is just a scam to get tourists to part with their money and then drive them about before we are returned to shore with empty pockets. I turn to look at the biologist and sailor and neither is even looking at the water, like they should be. They have given up too.
As the sun lowers in the sky, the water has become silky smooth and still, we glide over the water going up and down as the waves carry us and we continue and continue and continue further out to sea with no end in sight. More water, more water, more water, more water....water forever. We are following the path of the sun to the end of the earth.
Eventually we are slowing and come to a stop. We all sit up and look around until I hear excited talk of dolphins. I scan the sea and see two, three, four... dolphins their fins above water, then jumping in the waves.
Oh hooray! We can see them. Oh thank you marine biologist, oh thank you sea. What a wondrous sight. A pod of dolphins swimming about twenty meters away from us. Gliding through the water and now jumping through the waves. They get closer and some swim by us and are now under the boat.
The silky water is so clear and calm we can see the dolphins clearly. They are extraordinary. The sun is twinkling on the water and it so peaceful, we can only hear the gentle lapping of the water as the dolphins swim and chase fish.
It has been worth the wait and my heart is gladdened. I'm happy again and enjoy this moment of excitement and thrill.
I've captured a small piece of paradise in my memory and on my camera. These perfect creatures living their own secret lives in the vast, vast ocean.
What a delight to behold. I will treasure this moment forever.
This wonderful experience was made possible by rota dos cetaceos in Funchal, Madeira.
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